![]() Of course, since the emitter is hard wired, you’ll have to find a way to hide the cable. It works perfectly, and it’s really nice to have a single emitter operating the entire system. We fortunately have an end table about 10’ away from our equipment rack, so I hid the emitter in a flower arrangement. So, if your equipment rack is free-standing in the room, or behind glass doors, you might want to look into a flooding emitter. They also use the same 3.5mm plugs the repeater systems use – at least the ones that came with my old JVC VCR’s did. I later found out that the IR emitters that come with many VCRs (to control a cable box) are the flooding variety, so if you can dig one up in the back of some drawer in your house you can save a few bucks. I could not find one from Xantech, so I took a gamble and bought one from another brand, and it worked. I found the prospect of attaching a bunch of hard-wired emitters to all of my components to be highly unappealing, not to mention a major hassle – there’s way too much cabling required for a home theater system as it is.įortunately I learned about high-powered flooding emitters. You can easily identify them because they blink red when they emit a signal. The ones that attach directly to the component typically are low powered emitters. In researching for our installation, I learned that there are two types of emitters. Here’s a picture of a Xantech power block:ĭouble emitter (two emitters from a single plug on the power block) The cable from the in-wall or tabletop receiver plugs into the power block, as does a power supply, typically an AC adapter. The next thing in the connection chain is a “power block.” The Buffalo brand calls this piece a “receiver.” Either way, it’s the central connection point of the IR repeater system. For those who can’t solder, I’m confident the vendors of this equipment can supply long lengths of pre-terminated cabling. ![]() Long cable runs are not a problem according to Xantech’s website, using 18-gauge wire you can run a cable from a receiver up to one mile!īeing experienced at soldering, I just ordered a spool of cable from Parts Express, along with the necessary in-line plugs and jacks, and made my own extension cable. Depending on the model or brand, either stereo or mono versions will be used, or a combination of both (our system uses both). Fortunately, the connections most of these systems use are standard 3.5mm audio jacks and plugs, like the ones used for headphones for portable playback devices. run from the TV to where the equipment was located. Which ever receiver you go with – tabletop or in-wall - it converts the IR signal from the remote to an electrical signal that can travel on wiring.Īn obstacle many people will have with their IR receiver is getting a cable long enough to reach the equipment rack. I found that to be really distracting, so I covered it with a piece of black electrical tape. ![]() Unfortunately, our tabletop unit had a bright LED that lit up to show it was receiving a signal from the remote. ![]() Xantech also makes in-wall receivers like the one linked above, for people who need that option (some other brands, like Buffalo, for some reason calls the receivers “repeaters”).
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |